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When compiling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might expect familiar award-winning venues. However, tucked near the top among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying part of north London.

An Surprise Honour

This compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the family completely astonished.

“I’m completely surprised,” states the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their small place earning such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its earlier character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the fare, and this establishment certainly delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy texture.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. When the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

It is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo outside its own premises. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this gastronomic honour.